Make any adjustments now before framing is in place.According to Claiborne, the family has made multiple calls to Make It Right representatives, but have never heard back.
This will indicate the top edge of the deck’s frame. Make a second below the first so that it is the same distance below the top line as the thickness of your decking.Īdjust the outline strings you setup during layout to match the height of the bottom line. Mark a line along the house wall at this height with a chalk line. Set your deck height even with the bottom of the door threshold, or sill. They are cheaper, stronger and easier than lead sleeve anchors. For flat bottom brackets, use 3 inch Tapcon style concrete anchors and a hammer drill to attach the brackets, once the concrete is fully set. Some brackets come with lags, or bolts attached that sink into the concrete. Set corner brackets first and stretch a string between them for positioning of the remaining brackets.The open side should face up, with the bracket aligned to the inside of the string. Position a bracket on top of each footing, so that it aligns with the required post placement.
Use a small level across the top of the tube and adjust to that for a level post base. Shovel dirt into the hole to backfill around all sides of the cardboard form to keep it vertical.Measure and cut each cardboard footing form to rest on top of the concrete you shoveled in and rise to 2 inches above grade to prevent the post from standing in water.Shovel 2 to 3 inches of concrete into the bottom of each footing hole before inserting the cardboard form.The bottom of each hole should be flared out slightly on all sides, to provide a larger “foot” at the base of the footing, to further discourage movement.Make sure each footing is dug in line with the strings you tied between your corner stakes. Dig each footing 48 inches deep and 10 to 12 inches across, centered on the location you marked when laying out your deck.Your deck will not pass inspection with inadequate footings and the posts can be forced up by frost when the ground freezes, known as “heaving” which can destroy it.
#Floating foundation post failure under deck code
On the safe side, dig your footings at least 48 inches deep, or check with your local code enforcement. At each location, dig a hole, deep enough to pass your frost line by at least two inches and wide enough to accept the cardboard form and leave an inch or two on all sides. You have already marked your footing locations in your deck’s layout. When using this style of support, set the post’s base in at least 2 inches of small gravel at the bottom of the footing hole, to prevent water from building up around it. If your local building code permits this type of construction it is easier, faster, and less expensive. In temperate regions, such as a the southwest United States, posts are often set into the concrete footings and extended up to support the deck. Other footing options exist depending on where you live.